Pre-, pro- or postbiotics, what does it correspond to? “Prebiotics are complex sugars (such as inulin or yacon juice) extracted from fruits and vegetables, which feed the good bacteria present on the skin and allow them to rebalance the micro-biome (environment of the skin flora), explains Marie Drago, doctor of pharmacy and creator of the Gallinée brand. Postbiotics (lactic acid, omega-3 and 6, etc.) are produced by probiotics and constitute a beneficial environment for their development.”
As for those found in cosmetics, “these are extracts of intestinal probiotics (or micro-organisms), which act on the good bacteria of the skin”, specifies Michel Bohbot, founder of Synbionyme. Because, for the moment, only the effects of these probiotics (lactobacilli, bifidus, etc.) have been studied and have shown a beneficial action, in particular on skin inflammation.
What is the microbiome for?
Composed of several billion micro-organisms, the cutaneous microbiota (or flora) protects against external aggressions. When pathogenic bacteria try to take hold, skin probiotics, which are living microscopic organisms (yeasts, viruses, bacteria, etc.), produce toxic substances to destroy them. If the bacteria still manage to settle, they unbalance the microbiota and the skin shows signs of inflammation (redness, irritation, dryness), but also pathologies such as acne or eczema. It is to maintain a good skin balance that pro-, pre- and postbiotics are integrated into certain cosmetics.
Probiotics preserve the youthfulness of the skin
Probiotics are above all anti-inflammatory, they strengthen the immune system and the barrier function of the skin. However, we know that one of the reasons for premature aging is “inflam’aging”, this chronic and silent inflammatory state of the cells, linked to our way of life, to pollution…
Some brands quickly understood the benefits of these active ingredients: Estée Lauder incorporated probiotics (lactobacilli and bifidus) into its Advanced Night Repair skincare several years ago. These are always combined with other active ingredients such as hyaluronic acid or peptides with targeted anti-aging action.
Synbiotics are fighting pimples
Too much and poor quality sebum leads to inflammation caused by the c.acnes bacteria. But “she is not solely responsible. It is when the balance with the staphylococcus epidermidis bacterium is broken that acne sets in”, explains Professor Brigitte Dréno, dermatologist at the Nantes University Hospital.
We can therefore improve the effectiveness of care and avoid recurrences by combining synbiotics with traditional treatments, because they reinforce the capacities of this bacterium. This is the case with Effaclar Duo+ from La Roche-Posay or Medacnyl from Synbionyme. The (Im)perfection range of Pulpe de Vie also contains a prebiotic, the rebalancing Bioecolia. “Instead of disinfecting the skin to eliminate the c.acnes bacteria, it seems more logical to favor the good bacteria, which will rebalance it”, observes Marie Drago.
Prebiotics regulate breakouts
A study published in “Nature” shows that atopic dermatitis (eczema) is intimately linked to the overdevelopment of Staphylococcus aureus in the microbiota. To counter it, some brands have created tailor-made pre- and post-biotic complexes. Thus, at Avène, I-modulia is an active ingredient derived from the microflora present in the thermal water of the same name. It is used in XeraCalm AD treatments to regulate the microbial flora of atopic skin. Just like Aqua Posae Filiformis, which comes from a bacterium cultivated in the thermal water of La Roche-Posay and which is found with a natural prebiotic in the Lipikar AP+ treatment.
Probiotics limit perspiration odors
Another interesting field for probiotics, deodorants. Indeed, the smell of perspiration is due to the development of bacteria which degrade the fatty substances of sweat when it comes into contact with the microbiota of the armpits. Pascale de Lomas, co-creator of Daydry, explains: “We have developed a complex of probiotics and enzymes that stops the proliferation of bacteria and breaks down odor molecules”. A completely natural way to manage this universal concern, without resorting to essential oils or aluminum salts.
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- Spotty skin: the foods to favor, and those to avoid
- Eczema, allergies, excess sun, psoriasis: how to tell the difference?
