Originally from Central Asia, where it has been cultivated for more than 8000 years, hemp has more than one trick up its sleeve. Easy to grow, this plant requires little water and no pesticides, so it can live almost anywhere… France is the second largest producer after China. In the past, hemp was used to make fabric, much more resistant than cotton. Today, it is mainly used in agriculture, on the fields, to renew the plots and purify the land between two crops and it is also a very popular raw material in the paper industry.
One plant, two assets
From mechanically cold-pressed hemp seeds, an oil is extracted, which has both food and cosmetic properties. In food, it is used raw to decorate salads and helps to fight against cardiovascular diseases. In cosmetics, it is used alone, or integrated into a ready-to-use formula.
Hemp can also be used in the form of an extract, called cannabidiol or CBD. It is obtained, for the moment, from a mixture of hemp seeds and stems. But last November, the European Court of Justice ruled France’s ban on the marketing of cannabidiol (CBD) illegal. Thus, the flower (or head), which contains the highest concentration of CBD in the plant, could therefore soon also be used in cosmetics in France.
To transform the plant into an active ingredient, the suppliers each have their own recipe. On the other hand, French legislation requires that CBD-based products contain no trace of THC, the famous psychotropic molecule. “This is why THC is separated from other molecules and then removed by a chromatography technique”, explains Alison Malamoud, doctor of pharmacy. The CBD extract is then transformed into a powder which can then be incorporated into treatments.
Hemp oil, nourishing
Used for a long time in cosmetics, rich in essential fatty acids, mainly in omega 3 and 6, this natural vegetable oil participates in the nutrition of the skin, and softens it thanks to its emollient effect. The linoleic acid it contains helps to limit transepidermal water loss. It is appreciated for its dry finish. It also has antioxidant and soothing properties, as it contains a low dose of cannabinoid.
CBD, soothing
This ingredient has been the subject of many scientific studies, especially in skin prone to eczema or atopic ermatitis. It is recognized for two actions: an anti-inflammatory effect and a sebum-regulating action. CBD is recommended in case of sensitive skin, redness, because it soothes and calms them. It also regulates sebum levels, which makes it a good ally for oily skin, but also for people who want a perfect skin texture in times of stress or during menstruation.
Also used in certain massage oils (in this case the CBD isolate which is infused in oils), it relieves localized pain, calms osteoarthritis or soothes tendonitis. CBD can also be ingested to reduce stress and promote sleep.
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