Antioxidant: Why are they used?
Because these are molecules, most often derived from foods (grapes, green tea, grenade…), who fight against free radicals. When these attack the cells, they lead to inflammation and then a chain reaction which can damage the skin and cause its premature aging. It’s a bit like the effect of rust on the body of a car. This oxidative stress is mostly due to UV rays, pollution, stress, fatigue, tobacco, alcohol, etc.
Antioxidants: How do they work?
In two ways. First, they stop the destruction of cells by free radicals. Second, they act by stimulating the production of antioxidants by the body itself.
Because our body has its own protection system and secretes antioxidants (superoxide dismutase, glutathione and catalase).
But in case of too much stress, our system is overwhelmed and can no longer cope. With age, it also becomes less efficient and takes longer to repair the damage caused by these free radicals.
>> To read also: Nutrition: your best anti-aging allies
Antioxidants: What role do they play exactly?
They protect skin cells. They are found in most anti-aging creams, but also in moisturizers. Because, since they limit the cellular damage responsible for premature aging, they are essential active ingredients for anti-aging prevention.
As Lionel de Benetti, ex-director of research at Clarins, says: “An anti-aging cream today should contain at least moisturizing, antioxidant and antiglycation active ingredients”. Studies have shown that green tea extracts, curcumin, ferulic acid, grape polyphenolsof apple, pomegranate or olive have a real cutaneous effect. They also have a role in detoxifying the skin, they make it more uniform, brighter, healthier.
Then, they protect the assets: the vegetal oilsfor example, are very sensitive to oxidation (they go rancid).
Which antioxidants are the most effective?
The most recognized are carotenoids, including beta-carotene, vitamins C and E, coenzyme Q10 (or ubiquinone), polyphenols (flavonoids, tannins, anthocyanins). Today, scientists know how to measure their ability to neutralize free radicals using an index called Orac (Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacity). This is how the antioxidant power of sea buckthorn, cranberries, goji berries, acai, pomegranate and black grapes was discovered. The spices are also strong antioxidants, but less common in beauty treatments.
Antioxidants: if there are several in a treatment, is it better?
For Isabelle Benoit, head of scientific communication at Esthederm, “a cocktail is preferable, because few antioxidants act on all free radicals”. The various antioxidants therefore neutralize different types of free radicals. Vitamin C, for example, is very powerful. Not only does it track certain free radicals, especially those induced by UV rays, but it also reactivates vitamin E when it has already trapped other free radicals.
Antioxidants: can these molecules counter UV rays?
Not directly. This is why, in direct sunlight, the solar filters remain essential against UVB and A. On the other hand, antioxidants will fight against free radicals induced by UV, but also against the damage that these rays cause within the skin.
