” L“Skin quality has been our workhorse for years,”indicates Alexandre Vacher, CEO of Météo Physiodermie. Same message at Isdin, whose credo is to combine “science and beauty”, according to Frédéric Delpech, marketing director for France. Today, cutting-edge brands offer a “pre-rejuvenating” offer, which seeks to counter and delay aging, rather than solving it once the damage has been done.
Objective: maintain impeccable skin quality
Hence the desire to protect cells from attacks and senescence. “ We will not replace the injections or surgery » admits Alexandre Vacher, well aware that this concept is, if not outdated, not very credible in the eyes of consumers. On the other hand, “the future of skincare is to maintain impeccable skin quality, capable of defending itself against external aggressions and a sign of good health” completes the expert.
A point of view shared by Anne Chalon, French training director at Dermalogica, for whom delaying aesthetic treatments “will also go through the rise of beauty tech. » Here are the active ingredients dedicated to giving us “clear plus ultra” skin.
The mushrooms
Reishi, chaga, tremelle, shiitake… They represent an undeniable potential to fight against inflammation, which Origins – an American brand inspired by Korean cosmetics – had seen since 2005. Discredited, these superfoods are nevertheless full of essential nutrients, whether ingested or applied to the skin.
A study published in “Food Science and Human Wellness” confirmed the immune system-regulating and inflammation-reducing effect of certain mushrooms rich in betaglucans and polyphenols. Korean cosmetics then did the rest, integrating it into many soothing treatments.
Inulin
This sugar from the polysaccharide family (a succession of carbohydrates with prebiotic properties) has softening and stress-relieving properties. This is explained by its film-forming properties, which allow it to capture moisture and retain it in skin cells.
Placed in moisturizing treatments, its function is to prevent tightness and repair the skin barrier, so that it prevents dehydration and protects itself from aggression.
Retinaldehyde
Very similar to retinol, retinal is less irritating. Because while it must be broken down (into retinal, then retinoic acid) inside the skin before it can be effective, it binds directly to retinoid receptors. Thus, “we gain speed of action, while not overloading the skin, which is all the better for it” explains Alexandre Vacher.
“Retinaldehyde has immense market potential, being three times more powerful than retinol for wrinkle reduction. However, most brands only target it,” judges Frédéric Delpech, France marketing director at Isdin. “If women over 45 will love it as a possible complement to retinol treatment, those who have never taken the plunge with retinoids will be able to make an effective and less irritating introduction. »
The mafane brede
This plant of Reunion origin strengthens the architecture of the dermis and boosts the action of fibroblasts. As a result, the loss of firmness is slowed. “It’s simple, as soon as we stimulate the mitochondria (the engine of the cell), a natural chain reaction occurs on cellular dynamism” explains Anne Chalon. This reflects on the outside, with unparalleled skin quality.
Peptides
Grouped together, they form proteins whose role is to stimulate the production of collagen and elastin in the heart of the dermis, so that on the surface the features are smoothed and the skin firms. They are also fantastic antioxidants, neutralizing free radicals generated by microattacks (UV, stress, etc.) and fighting against inflammation.
Certain proteins – such as crystallins – have a role as “chaperones”: they protect others to prevent them from being denatured. “Providing peptides to the body via skincare induces a biomimetic action, which can only boost the natural functioning of the skin,” concludes Anne Chalon.
Retinyl retinoate
“It is the most innovative retinoid, but also the most expensive,” estimates Alexandre Vacher. Few brands exploit it, in particular because of the lack of studies. Only Korean researchers have (very well) carried out very promising trials, published in the “British Journal of Dermatology”.
This alliance of retinoic acid + retinol obtains superior results to retinol, particularly with regard to collagen synthesis and without irritation. “When it is fully exploited by specialists, we will have made real progress for sensitive skin in terms of anti-aging care” concludes Alexandre Vacher.
Our experts:
- Alexandre Vacher, general director of the Sintyl laboratory and CEO of Météo Physiodermie
- Anne Chalon, training director France at Dermalogica
- Frédéric Delpech, marketing director France at Isdin
