Sensitive, irritable, even intolerant… this suffering skin can become a real headache to treat: 62% of women complain about it. “Most of them are fair skin, fairly thin. More often dry skin, says Dr. Martine Baspeyras, dermatologist. But normal or oily skin, which has been stripped too much, can become so. »
What are the main symptoms?
Tingling, heating, tightness, or even a burning sensation are the lot of sensitive skin. Sometimes you don’t see anything at all. “We do not observe any real visible pathology, apart from a few temporary pinkness or redness. But the discomfort is almost permanent,” explains
Dr Baspeyras. It is for this reason that for a long time the problem was not really taken seriously. In some people,
on the other hand, flushes (transient redness) and rashes (eruptions) appear, which can turn into a pathology such as rosacea.
Less redness with corrective makeup
What makes the skin react?
Sensitive and intolerant skin reacts to stimuli that have no effect on other skin. This is even what characterizes it. A gust of wind, a few minutes at cold, water that is too calcareous, and it blushes, heats up, tingles, becomes uncomfortable. The same phenomenon can also occur in contact with an overly perfumed product, following a slightly heavy shave…
How can this excessive sensitivity be explained?
Three major biological mechanisms are responsible: alteration of the cutaneous barrier, hyperactivity of the cutaneous nervous system and oxidative stress (aggression by free radicals). Indeed, the epidermis presents an alteration of its barrier function. This phenomenon promotes skin dehydration and especially the penetration of potentially irritating agents. In addition, the skin secretes excess neurotransmitters, as well as pro-inflammatory cytokines (substances involved in inflammation, produced by skin cells). These neurotransmitters invade the tissues and cause the vessels to dilate, creating discomfort and excessive reactivity.
There is also an overproduction of free radicals. And external attacks do not help matters. Especially pollution, because, as soon as the skin barrier is altered, polluting particles can penetrate more easily. The cold, the heat, the wind, the tobacco and other stresses can also attack it.
What precautions to take?
Before applying a new product, you must learn to spot the possible presence of irritating ingredients: certain preservatives, retinoids
(or vitamin A acid), fruit acids, chemical sunscreens, essential oils, soaps… The less the skin is stressed by substances that risk irritating it, the better it is. In addition, for sensitive skin, fewer ingredients in a formula also means more safety! The best friends of sensitive skin are neutral products: without perfume, preservatives or surfactants and with the minimum of ingredients. By limiting their number, the risk of reaction is reduced. This is what specialized cosmetic brands are doing more and more, offering products containing less than a dozen components! And sometimes using processes and packaging (conditioning) that make it possible to completely dispense with preservatives.
How to take care of sensitive skin?
Do a gentle cleanse. It is an essential gesture, which makes it possible to rid the skin of potential “aggressors”. Nevertheless, care must be taken that it is not itself irritating. For Dr. Haudrey Assier, dermatologist, “it is above all necessary to use gentle cleansers, without surfactants that are too “harsh”. And avoid aggressive gestures, such as scrubs and exfoliations.
- Do not layer too many products.
- Limit make-up to a minimum by choosing products from specific ranges formulated for intolerant skin (Avène, La Roche-Posay, etc.).
- Do not change cream too often, to avoid any intolerance to new components.
- Touch her skin as little as possible: the less she is stimulated, even by simple contact, the better she is.
- Do not rub it, but touch it with your fingertips, and do not use a sponge or press with the cotton pad during make-up removal.
- Avoid excessively hot baths, high-pressure showers and other sauna and hammam.
- Do not eat too many spicy dishes, limit alcoholic beverages.
- Avoid sudden temperature changes if possible.
How to take care of your sensitive skin
How to determine your skin type?
And on the dermatological side, what solutions?
“To calm these skins that any stress (exam, professional interview…) can “excite”, I suggest doing LED sessions: red light especially is anti-inflammatory. Once a week for a month, then maintenance once a month, explains Dr. Baspeyras. This allows you to be quiet for a few months afterwards. » Count 50 € per session, not reimbursed.
What if the redness, especially on the cheeks and nose, becomes permanent? It is either rosacea, which can be treated with vascular laser sessions; or rosacea, which is the last stage of sensitive skin. In this case, it is better to consult a dermatologist. The treatments are then medical, local in the form of a gel or cream, or even oral (antibiotics), if necessary.
What active ingredients should be favored in creams?
Niacinamide, anti-inflammatory and soothing, promotes the synthesis of ceramides, lipids essential to the functioning of the skin barrier.
Thermal waters They also have an anti-inflammatory effect on the epidermis, because they are rich in trace elements such as selenium.
Oats limit inflammatory reactions by decreasing the release of neuropeptides by the skin.
Alpha-bisabolol (soothing) and licorice extracts (gluconolactone and glycyrrhetinic acid) help fight redness and irritation.
Plant extracts such as Roman chamomile, witch hazel, calendula and cornflower, known for their soothing and decongestant action, are present in organic cosmetics.
Plant pigments such as escin, rutin, red vine, regulate microcirculation and strengthen the vessels in case of couperose.
Couperose and rosacea: dare the laser
How to treat rosacea and angiomas?
Our favorite treatments for sensitive skin
1. Regulator
Against rosacea, this fresh, slightly green-tinted gel-cream contains a decongestant licorice extract. Endothelyol reduces redness, promotes microcirculation and attenuates blood vessels. With a new generation thermoregulating agent.
Sensifine cream AR, SVR, €16.50 for 40 ml.
See the product Out of 1001 Pharmacies
2. Regenerating
In this fresh and organic texture, soothing pink clay and a natural complex that replenishes the skin, combining kombu seaweed, which stimulates cell renewal, and rose floral water, which soothes and hydrates.
Tendre Cocoon comforting sleeping cream, Cattier, €22.95 for 50 ml.
See the product On Amazon
3. Anti-Aging
Floral waters of cornflower, barley and witch hazel, soothing plants, are complemented by sweet almond and argan oils. Seaweed extract promotes collagen synthesis. The formula is designed to make the skin less reactive and smoother.
Soothing anti-aging cream, Florame, €27.75 for 50 ml.
See the product On Mademoiselle Bio
4. Special make-up removal
This water composed of micelles (micro-emulsion) of plant origin combines a very mild surfactant, moisturizing glycerin and Rhealba oats, soothing and restorative.
Cleansing and moisturizing micellar water, Sensifluid, A-Derma, €10.40 for 250 ml.
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5. Antiredness
This creamy cream contains three patented technologies, ginseng, an algae extract and thermal water to reconstitute the skin barrier, soothe inflammation and increase the resistance of small vessels to temperature variations.
CC cream SPF 30 Roséliane, Uriage, €13.50 for 40 ml.
See the product Out of 1001 Pharmacies
Read also:
Thermal water, the good reasons to drink it on your skin
10 dermatological tips for beautiful skin
Which make-up remover to choose according to your skin type?
The best care for sensitive skin
