Do you know the difference between a real skin sensitivity and a simple reaction to an external aggression? Sensitive skin is sensitive to everything, permanently, and it reacts immediately to the slightest external aggression: pollution, water limescale, unsuitable and irritating cosmetics, cold, wind, air conditioning, friction … Linked to neurotransmitters, “this sensitivity most often results in unpleasant sensations (heating, itching, tightness, tingling …) , without visible symptoms, specifies Dr Pascale Neulat, dermatologist. When the skin is reactive, we can also observe signs of erythema, in the form of temporary redness (flush) or permanent. “
Ensure protection on all fronts
This discomfort is also explained by an altered skin barrier. “Because its barrier function is no longer assured, the skin becomes more permeable to everything, to aggressions, to microorganisms, to allergens … which further worsens its sensitivity”, continues the specialist. A vicious circle sets in. It must be stopped by allowing the skin to regain its natural defenses and by restoring its barrier function. How? ‘Or’ What? By protecting and moisturizing it with care products adapted to its needs, which are very specific.
Rebalance the microbial flora
Today, we know that the microbiota (flora) of sensitive skin is modified. Hence a less efficient skin barrier, as well as an impact on the nerve receptors of the skin cells. To remedy this, we must strengthen this flora and restore the barrier function, by providing prebiotics, ingredients, which the “good” bacteria need. For example, oligelements present in thermal waters such as selenium. The addition of biomass (extracts of non-pathogenic bacteria) is another solution to restore the bacterial balance and strengthen the immunity of the skin.
The beauty prescription in 3 steps from Dr Pascale Neulat, dermatologist
A respectful makeup remover
Efficiency must go hand in hand with tolerance, in a formula capable of trapping and eliminating impurities including microscopic particles linked to pollution, while sparing essential skin lipids.
The recommended routine
Micellar water is ideal. But if the skin is made up, we prefer a cleansing oil. In the morning, a light wash with micellar water or even a simple spray of thermal water on the face may be sufficient.
Manual
Apply the oil delicately to dry skin with your fingertips, then rinse with lukewarm water with cotton discs (eg Demak Up Sensitive with aloe vera).
Read also:cleansing milk: how to choose it?
A soothing day cream
It is necessary to protect the skin barrier and restore it; for this, a simple nourishing cream is not enough.
The recommended routine
We choose treatments with classic or more innovative soothing active ingredients, such as certain peptides acting on neurotransmitters to immediately relieve tingling and tightness. Most treatments also incorporate anti-redness ingredients, which reduce vasodilation and reduce redness. From March to October, we adopt sun protection, even in town (SPF 50+), because the skin is more sensitive to UV rays which increase the effects of pollution.
Manual
Apply the cream by tapping gently with the fingertips to make it penetrate, without rubbing.
Read also:Beauty: Questions we ask ourselves about our day cream
A restructuring night care
This is to help the skin to replenish its essential lipids during the night to limit feelings of discomfort.
The recommended routine
We apply a treatment with a rich, comfortable and soothing texture, without overdoing it (a nut is enough). If the skin still “pulls”, one of the components of the cream is not suitable for it. Better to change care!
Manual
If possible, the application is carried out a good half an hour before going to bed so that it has time to act on the skin, because the rubbing of the pillow and the sheet tend to absorb the cream.
Read also : Night cream, what is it for?
And on the rest of the body?
The alteration of the skin barrier is accompanied by tightness and itching all over the body. It is therefore necessary to limit external attacks and apply soothing and lipid-replenishing body balms to restore the skin’s barrier function. And also use mild cleansing gels (sulfate-free) to clean it … from head to toe.
Treatments that comfort the skin
1 Soft make-up remover
Enriched in soft copolymer used in eye drops and artificial tears and in moisturizing glycerin, it eliminates impurities, even invisible particles from pollution.
Micellar water Ultra reactive skin, La Roche-Posay, € 12 for 400ml.
2 Fresh cream
On sensitive skin, this gel formula based on hyaluronic acid and glycerin calms, quenches thirst and plumps up from the first application. Thirst-quenching moisturizing face gel-cream, Sensibiafine, € 15.90 for 50ml.
3 Organic formula
Honey, hyssop, chamomile hydrosol, coconut oil and especially prebiotic bioecolia extract moisturize and regulate the skin on a daily basis. Health cream, Absolution, € 38 for 50ml.
4 SOS mask
Its cocktail of active ingredients of plant origin (arnica, witch hazel, marshmallow, St. John’s wort) soothes and reduces discomfort.Sensitive Mask Specifics, Yon Ka, € 46 for 50ml.
5 High Tolerance Corrector
Both skincare and make-up, with anti-scratch and anti-puffiness active ingredients, it includes anti-dark circles pigments for sensitive and irritated eyes. CC palpebral topialysis, 2 shades, SVR, € 14.90 for 7g.
6 Gentle cleansing milk
Formulated with only 9 ingredients, without perfume or preservatives, this make-up remover for intolerant skin gently cleanses the epidermis and the eye area and soothes irritation.
Cleansing milk, Tolérance Extra-Pur, Mixa, € 4.95 for 200ml.
7 Anti-redness treatment
It contains encapsulated pigments that camouflage redness and soothing and moisturizing active ingredients (Centella Asiatica, hyaluronic acid, etc.). To be applied alone or over the day cream.
Cream N ° 2, CC Cream, SPF50 +, Payot, € 31 for 40ml.
8 Multipurpose oil
Rich in essential fatty acids, it is applied all over the body with a dry touch.
Body care oil, Avène, € 19.15 for 100ml.
9 Pleasure balm
Its creamy and rich texture penetrates easily to re-hydrate the skin and strengthen the skin barrier thanks to its dexpanthenol, glycerin and triglyceride content.
Body cream pH5, Eucerin, € 19.95 for 450ml.
Read also:
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Successful skin cleansing in 5 steps