For a long time, only a relatively risky soda-based straightening (based on sodium hydroxide or guanidine) could permanently straighten the hair. Then came the japanese smoothing (thioglycolic acid) with its permanent “wand” effect and Brazilian smoothing (with keratin), with a softer result, but less lasting. Quite revolutionary, the latter was put on the spot by the National Agency for the Safety of Medicines and Health Products (ANSM): some products contained excessively high levels of formalin, eminently dangerous for health.
To choose, take into account your hair type
Today, the techniques have multiplied. So much so that it is difficult to navigate. And the prices charged are quite high: so don’t be wrong! When choosing one or the other technique, several parameters must be taken into account. You have to choose according to the desired result (stiff or flexible, more or less volume), but also the nature of the hair, the maintenance of smoothing over time and the price. Our advice: contact a hairdresser who is used to practicing several techniques, because he will then be in a better position to advise you.
Smoothing with natural collagen: a “long-lasting” effect
Whether it is natural or colored hair, curly or unruly, it smooths the hair without resorting to straightening plates and offers a permanent brushing effect to all hair types. Containing plant collagen, it acts as a filler, while increasing the diameter of the hair fiber. After shampooing, the collagen treatment is applied strand by strand before being rinsed, after an exposure time varying according to the condition of the hair. A fixing cream follows, applied for 5 to 15 minutes. Once rinsed, drying is done simply with the fingers and the dryer.
The advantage
Faster and less expensive than Japanese straightening, it is a permanent treatment that can be used both for densifying and smoothing (by varying the exposure time from 5 to 25 minutes). It is sufficient to maintain the roots after six months. The result is natural and the hair shiny. Bathing, rain or humidity, straightening is resistant and brushing becomes very easy to do.
Disadvantage
In order to penetrate the product, the scales of the hair are opened thanks to an active principle, ethanolamine, integrated in the softening treatment. This chemical process always dries out the hair fiber a little (like coloring). It is therefore imperative to take care of your hair at home, using mild shampoo without sulfates and nourishing masks.
Duration: 1:30 to 2 hours.
The price
From 150 € Luxter® smoothing in Lissfactor partner salons. Root maintenance from € 75.
Smoothing with hyaluronic acid: plus a moisturizing “super-care”
This technique has all the advantages of Brazilian straightening, without the disadvantages. It allows to keep its nature of hair, while facilitating styling. His secret? Hyaluronic acid, which deeply hydrates. It all starts with a purifying shampoo that cleans and opens the scales (which prepares the hair for treatment). Composed of 5% hyaluronic acid, keratin,Argan Oil and amino acids, the treatment is applied to pre-dried hair. Then plates (infrared and ultrasound technique) are passed over fairly large wicks: under the action of heat, the water is transformed into vaporous gas which allows the molecules of the treatment to penetrate to the heart of the hair fiber. A drying with the fingers and with the brush is then carried out, before passing a straightening iron on the strands, which will fix the hyaluronic acid and the keratin inside the fiber.
The advantage
Without formalin, this smoothing has no unpleasant odor and no stinging. Hydrated and sheathed, the hair is placed naturally in the movement of the cut. Smooth or curly, this treatment facilitates their styling without depriving themselves of coloring, highlights or highlights that can be done on the same day.
Disadvantage
The cost ! It is not a permanent treatment, so you have to start again after 3 to 4 months. In order to preserve the keratin in the hair fiber for longer, it is necessary to use quality shampoos without sulfates and without salt (sodium chlorate), which eats away at the keratin.
Duration: 1:30 to 2 hours.
The price
From € 150 and up to € 400, Hyaluronic keratin smoothing available in partner salons.
The Korean smoothing of “tailor-made”
The technique modifies the structure of the fiber in order to relax it irreversibly. An extract of henna and marine collagen will also coat the hair and bring elasticity, shine and density to the whole. After shampooing, the product is applied near the roots, strand by strand, with a brush. The exposure time varies depending on the thickness and sensitivity of the hair (10 to 45 minutes). Once rinsed, it is dried in the dryer and the locks are smoothed with plates in order to boost and fix the product. The henna treatment then seals the scales. The styling is done with the dryer and with the fingers.
The advantage
Real tailor-made permanent straightening (4 different strengths), it can be done on natural, colored or bleached hair to obtain a softer result than Japanese straightening, but stiffer than Brazilian. As it is a permanent straightening, regrowth is only treated when the hair lengthens (twice a year). When retouching the roots, it is possible to do a Brazilian straightening on the rest of the hair.
Disadvantage
Containing a derivative of thioglycolic acid, it modifies the structure of the hair fiber, which always dries it out a little. It can therefore not be done on too damaged hair or on strands that are too marked, because the result will be neither uniform nor perfect.
Whatever the condition of the hair, regular maintenance (moisturizing care and cutting of the ends) is essential.
Duration: about 3:30.
The price
From 350 € the Korean straightening RH12 + in partner salons. For the maintenance of the roots, count about 20% of the price.
